Services
Six things, done properly
We don’t clean commercial kitchens, we don’t seal roofs and we don’t paint. This is the whole list, and everything on it is done by the same three people. Below is what actually happens on each job, including the parts other companies leave out of the sales pitch.
01 · Concrete
Driveways & concrete
A wand on flat concrete is how you get zebra stripes — those alternating light and dark bands that look worse after it dries than before you started. We run a 20-inch surface cleaner instead: two rotating jets under a housing, moving at a steady walking pace with each pass overlapping the last by about a third. The whole slab gets the same dwell, the same pressure, and no seams. The wand only comes out for edges, expansion joints and the corners the housing can’t reach.
Oil, rust and irrigation stains get pre-treated before the cleaner touches them, because pressure alone drives them deeper into the pores. After the rinse we put down a sodium hypochlorite post-treatment at low strength. It kills what the water loosened but didn’t carry away, and that is the real reason the black comes back in four months on some jobs and eighteen on ours.
- 20-inch surface cleaner on the flats, wand only for edges and joints
- Oil, rust and irrigation stains pre-treated, not just blasted
- Low-strength post-treatment so regrowth takes seasons, not weeks
- Paver joints re-sanded on request after the wash dries
02 · Siding
House soft wash
Siding does not need 3,000 psi. What takes algae off stucco, vinyl and Hardie is chemistry with time on it, not force. We mix sodium hypochlorite down to roughly one to two percent at the surface, add a surfactant so it clings instead of running straight to the ground, apply it at garden-hose pressure, let it sit while the green turns and dies, then rinse. Pressure at the wall stays under 500 psi.
The reason matters. A wand held close to vinyl forces water up behind the laps and into the wall cavity. On stucco it opens hairline cracks and takes the sheen off the paint unevenly. On any house it blows out the caulk lines around windows and doors. Soft washing avoids all of that, and because it kills the organism rather than knocking the visible layer off, the wall stays clean noticeably longer.
- Under 500 psi at the wall — safe on stucco, vinyl, Hardie and painted block
- Beds and shrubs soaked and tarped before the first drop, rinsed after
- Window and door caulk lines left intact
- Soffits, fascia and exterior light fixtures included in the pass
03 · Roofs
Roof soft wash
The black streaks running down the shaded slopes are gloeocapsa magma, a cyanobacteria that feeds on the limestone filler in asphalt shingles. Pressure will take it off. It will also take the granules off, and the granules are the shingle’s entire UV protection. That is how a cheap roof wash turns into an early roof replacement.
We use no pressure on a roof at all. Sodium hypochlorite goes down at soft wash strength and dwells for ten to fifteen minutes — you can stand there and watch the streaks go from black to nothing inside that window. Much past twenty minutes on a hot dry day is worse, not better, because the solution dries on the shingle instead of working, so we run one slope at a time and keep it wet the whole way. Tile and metal follow the same principle with a different mix.
- Zero pressure on shingles — chemistry and dwell time only
- 10 to 15 minute dwell, one slope at a time, never allowed to dry
- Downspouts diverted and gutters flushed so runoff misses the beds
- Shingle, tile and metal all handled — and we’ll say so if a roof is too far gone to wash
04 · Outdoor living
Pool decks & lanais
A cage, the pavers under it, travertine coping and the concrete apron are four different jobs on one work order. Travertine is soft and porous: it gets a surface cleaner at reduced pressure and never a turbo nozzle, which will etch it permanently in a pattern you cannot sand out. Pavers take more, but sand comes out of the joints on any wash, so we tell you before we start whether yours will want re-sanding.
Screen enclosures get soft washed rather than pressured. Frames, screen and kick plates all come clean with detergent and a rinse, and the black mildew on the shaded panels lifts without stretching the mesh. We tarp the plantings inside the cage first, direct everything toward a drain instead of your beds, sheet the pool surface if it’s uncovered, and rinse the coping down at the end.
- Travertine and marble at reduced pressure — no turbo nozzles, no etching
- Screen, frames and kick plates soft washed, not blasted
- Pool surface sheeted and coping rinsed down before we pack up
- You hear about paver re-sanding before the job, not after
05 · Wood & vinyl
Fences & decks
Vinyl and PVC fencing is straightforward: soft wash, dwell, rinse, and the green comes off the shaded side in one pass. Wood is where people get hurt. Pressure at fence-cleaning strength lifts the soft spring growth out from between the harder grain and leaves a furry, striped surface. It looks fine wet and terrible three days later once it dries, and it cannot be undone — you sand it or you live with it.
So wood gets a wide fan tip, the wand held well back, pressure kept in the 500 to 1,200 psi range, and one continuous pass along the grain rather than stopping and starting. We follow with a wood brightener, which neutralizes the pH the cleaner left behind and pulls the grey back toward the original color. If you plan to stain afterward, say so when you book — the wood needs several dry days before anything goes on it.
- Wood run at 500–1,200 psi, with the grain, never a turbo nozzle
- Brightener afterward to neutralize pH and pull out the grey
- Vinyl and PVC soft washed with effectively no pressure
- Staining after? We time the wash so the wood has days to dry
06 · Detail work
Gutter brightening
The vertical dark stripes on white aluminum gutters are not dirt, and no amount of pressure will move them. That is oxidation — the painted finish breaking down, bonded together with road film and whatever washes off the roof. It is a chemical problem, so it takes a chemical fix.
We brush on a dedicated gutter cleaner, give it time to work, agitate with a soft brush on a pole and rinse. A badly striped set takes two applications. This is slow hands-on ladder work, which is why it is priced separately from a house wash: soft washing the house cleans algae off the gutter faces but will not touch tiger striping.
What we can’t promise is a match to a brand-new gutter. Where the finish is heavily chalked, brightening gets it 80 to 90 percent of the way and evens it out, which reads as clean from the street. We’ll tell you which of those you have before we quote it.
- Treated as oxidation: dedicated cleaner plus hand agitation, not pressure
- Priced separately from the house wash because it’s a separate job
- Second application on heavily chalked runs at no extra charge
- An honest read on what your gutters will come back to, up front
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